5 underrated London set-menu gems
The quiet rooms doing some of London's best-value cooking
London's set-menu scene isn't all West End names and Mayfair dining rooms. Some of the best value in the city is hiding in plain sight, in neighbourhood pubs and family-run rooms that have been quietly nailing it for years without the queue out the door.
We've pulled together five that deserve a much bigger following, from a Swiss Cottage institution going since 1991 to a Nunhead pub that turns Tuesday into date night. Get in before everyone else catches on.
01 · Bradley's
Swiss Cottage
A 1991 Swiss Cottage institution, with a £15 daily plat du jour.
Tucked behind Swiss Cottage, Bradley's has been quietly feeding the neighbourhood since 1991, all warm service and classic European cooking. The headline steal is the £15 Plat du Jour, a single course that changes daily (£20 with a glass of house wine), Tuesday to Saturday lunch. Go bigger with the £29/£33 set or the £44 three-course Prix Fixe. A proper local that deserves a queue.
02 · The Waverley Arms
Nunhead
Nunhead's best Tuesday date night, two courses £20.
A handsome Nunhead pub that turns Tuesday into the best date night in south east London. The set menu is £20 for two courses or £24 for three, served on Tuesday evenings, with Steak Night Wednesdays and Fish Fridays the rest of the week. Unfussy, generous and genuinely good value.
03 · Idalia
Olympia
A grand Pillar Hall room at Olympia, choice-of-four set from £29.
This Modern British room sits inside the beautifully restored Pillar Hall at Olympia, and it is far grander than the price suggests. The set menu is a proper choice-of-four affair at £29 for two courses or £34 for three, lunch and dinner, seven days a week. One of the most handsome rooms on this list.
04 · Kokum
East Dulwich
The Dastaan team's modern Indian, three courses £25.
From the team behind Dastaan and Black Salt, Kokum cooks some of the sharpest modern Indian food in south London on East Dulwich Road. Three courses for £25, running early evenings Tuesday to Friday and Saturday lunch. Big flavours, tiny bill.
05 · Frederick's
Islington
A Camden Passage classic, family-run since 1969, from £30.
A Camden Passage institution, family-run and serving since 1969, with a conservatory and garden room that feel a world away from Islington's bustle. The set lunch is £30 for two courses or £35 for three, Tuesday to Friday. Old-school in the best way.
Five rooms that should be busier than they are. Book one this week, before the secret's out.